I've been in North Western Ghana for a few days now. I'm currently in the capital of the Upper West region, called Wa. The city is small and different than what we've seen in the south. First of all, this is the part of the country that is predominately Muslim, so we see more evidence of that, particularly mosques. There are old mud ones and newer colourful ones. The people here are also friendly, but the area is less frequented by tourists and they speak much less English than the south. In general, you feel like you're in a more remote area, so it's an interesting contrast, even though Donkorkrom was in the middle of nowhere.
I spent several days at the Wechiau Community Hippo Sanctuary, which was in large part the inspiration for this trip. I was there with a rep from the Calgary Zoo and will be heading back tomorrow for another visit with Jon. It's a really special place, and the hippos are only a small part of what makes it so interesting.
The main town, Wechiau, lies 22 km from the main road. They recently got electricity, but the only way to get cell phone reception is by standing on a platform behind the clinic, and even then, signal goes in and out. There are several smaller towns scattered about the area, including Telawana, 18km from Wechiau. That's where the guest lodge is and there is no electricity there. We travelled by private vehicle but when we go back tomorrow, we'll be biking into Telawana, since there are no taxis or tro-tros.
While I was there, I went on the river safari, where I saw hippos, despite it being less likely in the rainy season. I also learned a great deal about the hundreds of species of birds that inhabit the area, some of which are stunning, but you have to be quick to see them. I also learned about the uses of many of the local plants. Some are used to cure fever, to soothe insect bites, to spice food and there are multiple other uses. Probably the most notable part of the visit was the tour of the village. Telawana is inhabited by the Lobi people, who have very unique traditions. I got to visit inside their mud houses, that are more like a small complex that a whole family lives in (including the man's numerous wives). I saw how they make their food from scratch, by pounding corn for example. I ate guinea fowl and fresh fish right out of the Black Volta river. I watched women go through the long process of making Shea butter, which is a long and complicated task. It's hard to believe that it takes days to make a small ball, which they sell for a few cents at the market. On our last night, we slept outside, on the roof of the lodge, under the stars (and a mosquito net, of course)!
It's quite an interesting place, and a great success story. I'll have lots of pictures to share when I get back.
